Prep for 2010 Autocross season

[JCruiza120]

I hadn't heard of issues with the #4 thrust bearing before, but checking it out it seems that it manifests early in the NB1's and would have made issues by 20-25k miles if it was a faulty item.

I think I posted here about my issue I had last year where my timing belt job was botched and it resulted in crankshaft endplay equivalent to a short nose crank from the 90-91 Miata's >.< ... fortunately it was all taken care of by the shop that did the timing belt job, but I was out of my car for a month or so. Real PITA. Before that, about a month after I bought my car, the crank pulley EXPLODED. It's just been one thing after another, tbh. =p ... Matchbox is lucky I love him so much despite all our...history haha

[Deliverator]

Originally Posted by JCruiza120

Thanks for the advice. I've been looking at different options but I wasn't aware that FCM sold decently priced coilover perches.

I'd love to get my shocks revalved, and wouldn't mind the price, but that my Miata is my only car. I can't just have it sit for a week or two while my shocks ship to FCM, get revalved, then ship back. Maybe if I get a beater for this coming winter, then I'll look into some better options for modifications at that time, but otherwise I've been wary of getting myself in a position to be out of a car for any period of time.

I've got stock NA shocks you could bolt up while yours are off being revalved.

The NA and NB assemblies are interchangeable as a unit. You'd just have a bit less shock travel until your put your NB stuff back in. Welcome to use the lift at Casa de Deliverator for the swap; it's ideal for suspension work (exhaust & drivetrain, not so much). I've got a few extra new OEM camber bolts on hand, too; yours may be seized and/or corroded to hell at this point. Only trick would be scheduling it- looking like I'm on track to have the house on the market by the end of February.

[ConeCrusher]

Originally Posted by JCruiza120

I hadn't heard of issues with the #4 thrust bearing before, but checking it out it seems that it manifests early in the NB1's and would have made issues by 20-25k miles if it was a faulty item.

I think I posted here about my issue I had last year where my timing belt job was botched and it resulted in crankshaft endplay equivalent to a short nose crank from the 90-91 Miata's >.< ... fortunately it was all taken care of by the shop that did the timing belt job, but I was out of my car for a month or so. Real PITA. Before that, about a month after I bought my car, the crank pulley EXPLODED. It's just been one thing after another, tbh. =p ... Matchbox is lucky I love him so much despite all our...history haha

Mazda updated it to all 99-00 vins, but it you already did you timing belt you prolly are far over 65,000 miles and should be in the safe zone.

[Jephro]

Keep in mind that I have only autocrossed 3 years and miatas for 2 years when reading this:

Originally Posted by longuyen88

With those mod you'll be in STR. Stay out of CSP unless you want 15x9 6UL's with fender flares and 275/40/15 hoosiers to be competitive. This wheel/tire setup can easily exceed $2000. You will not be competitive with street tires in CSP. Go with STR.

NB's dont need fender flares to fit the 275's. Sho Tori runs a NB Anniversary and the tires tuck perfectly... Actually, I dont think he even rolled the fenders. Also, I would recommend a 15x10 for the 275's personally. I run 13x9's for my 255s on my NA and they are about perfect with the hoosiers.

However, I do agree with the advice given... unless you are willing to put bigger money into the car (I dont even want to admit how much $$ has gone into my car to prep for CSP and I am still long off from the top national guys) stick to STR because there is a big BIG gap between car prep and $$ investments between ST* and *SP classes. A properly prepped CSP car will have about $10-15k in investments between the drivetrain and suspension.

Originally Posted by longuyen88

In STR, first thing you need is sticky street tires that are nationally competitive. For that, the kumho XS is the cheapest one of the next generation street tires that can win on the national level. Disregard this since you already have relatively new tires. Just learn to drive for now.

XS's are good on the CRX's because the lighter car doesnt heat them up as much, I think the RE-11's were the prefered tire for the slightly heavier miatas.

But I agree 100%, if you have decent tires dont worry about it... save your money and do more events to work on your driving. If you do want to invest... XS is by far the best bang for the buck.

Originally Posted by longuyen88

Next thing is wheels. I think the max width rim you can run is 8.5" wide wheels. So you either can run 6ul's or the tr motorsports 8" wheel. 6ul's are light, but expensive compared to the TR C1m wheels (which I have in 7.5" width). Disregard this also, since you have stock wheels.

6UL's are a good choice and come in a lot of widths, the Enkei's are another great choice. I have a set of Rota Slipstreams which are around 13lbs each and are 15x7.5" and I got them used with tires for $400 shipped, so that is another option. Check miata and autocross forums and look for wheel/tire combos up for sale.

Originally Posted by longuyen88

Since you want to upgrade the suspension for performance, you'll probably only want to do this once. And since you already have bilsteins, send it to FCM or bilstein themselves to revalve it for 700F/450R spring rates for custom GC coils. Custom spring rates does not cost anymore than their regular spring rates. FCM is significantly more expensive for a revalve then sending it to bilstein.

Either that or find a set of Koni spots. 700/450 is probably your best bet. I used 650/450 last year for my setup and felt a little soft in the front still, so I am going to be getting a pair of Hyperco 600.250.700's for next year. My opinion is if you are going to touch the suspension at all... dont half ass it and do it wrong because you will hurt the car more than help it.

Originally Posted by longuyen88

Get a hollow front sway bar.

On the NA's the hollow bar I think is too much. Scott's turn in (hollow bar) was not in any way improved over mine (solid bar) and he couldnt get the car to rotate at all. He even had the FM rear bar (I use no rear bar) and identical alignment to me and my car will whip around like a top.

I am not sure if this is the same for the slightly heavier NB's, but if the same transfers then I would stick to the large solid bar.

Originally Posted by longuyen88

Let me drive your car, with you as a passenger. lol heck, you can even use my race tires (Bridgestone RE01R) if you want to feel more grip than your s-drives.

This is good advice, letting someone who is familiar with the miata's on an autocross course drive your car will teach you the most about your car and they will be able to point out improvements you could make on the car.

[JCruiza120]

Currently I've got my wheel/tire setup all set, still deciding on springs/sways to go with. I'll still be doing a lot of research for the next month/month and a half before I actually order them up and install them. Thanks a lot for everyone's input in this thread!

[Jephro]

Originally Posted by JCruiza120

Currently I've got my wheel/tire setup all set, still deciding on springs/sways to go with. I'll still be doing a lot of research for the next month/month and a half before I actually order them up and install them. Thanks a lot for everyone's input in this thread!

Once I get mine up and running, summer wheels/tires and the new struts in you are welcome to take a ride in mine to get a feel for my spring/height/bar setup to get a baseline.

[JCruiza120]

That would be awesome, thank you. Is there any time frame for the first events of the season?

[JCruiza120]

Also, there is a pretty excellent deal on Mazdaspeed Springs right now, and I'm getting a heavy paycheck friday. Would those be worthwhile for my usage? Since I'd have to reallign the car every time I changed the ride height if I got coilovers anyways and all.

http://www.gomiata.com/mamispsp.html

Regular 360+shipping, right now they are offering them for 277 shipped to my door.

Does Azenis on RPF1's, Mazdaspeed springs, and FM Sways for a fun street/autox package (emphasis on street) sound fair?

[Jephro]

WNY TENTATIVE SCHEDULE (confirmation coming soon)

5/2 ECCN
5/23 ECCN
6/27 SEAD (FLR OOR)
8/1 BIMP (FLR OOR) *** location subject to change ***
8/29 SEAD
9/12 ECCN
9/19 ECCN
10/3 ECCN (FLR OOR) Champagne Run



Finger Lakes Schedule

April 24 Novice School RIT
April 25 FLR #1 RIT
May 29 Street Survival School SEAD
May 30 FLR #2 SEAD
June 12 Test 'n Tune SEAD
June 13 FLR #3 SEAD
June 26 OOR #1 (WNY) SEAD
July 10-11 Finger Lakes National Tour SEAD
July 25 FLR #4 SEAD
August 1 OOR #2 (WNY) BMP
August 15 FLR #5 SEAD
August 22 FLR #6 SEAD
Sept. 26 FLR #7 RIT
Oct. 3 OOR #3 (WNY) ECC-N
Oct. 10 FLR #8 RIT


If you are a novice... the best bang for your buck is definitely going to be the novice school on the 24th. I'll be instructing again this year and someone one be driving my car in the school, so I should be able to take people for rides throughout the day. Either way, you are looking at another 2 months before the first local event.

[JCruiza120]

This'll be my third year, I've already attended 2 novice schools and I'm looking forward to a third, I love them! Last year I was on all stock suspension bits, and just minor exhaust mods, this year I'll be in much better shape to actually compete at events and not feel ridiculous about the state of my suspension. =p

Thanks a lot for posting over the tentative schedule.